True Staffordshire Grit

(9th March 2014)
I've lived in Staffordshire all of my life and had until this point been completely oblivious to the fact we have some of the best climbing in the UK in the county. My first taste of traditional climbing (placing protection into nature features in the rock to hopefully hold your fall) came along with the member of the Wolverhampton Mountaineering Club at the Roaches. This is the playground of some of the British climbers of the past and present including Joe Brown and Don Whillans, who set many of the routes in leather boots and homemade gear. This era was the true test of grit and courage with little options to make your climbing safe. 

Grit stone is known for his high friction surface due to it's gritty texture and general bold nature of the climbing. The Roaches is no exception with the classic Sloth (an overhanging rock face) the main focus of the main wall, dyed green with years of mossy and lichen growth. 

First grit expedition

 

I arrived late after a morning at work to meet the group who had been basking in glorious sunshine on a summery day in March. I managed to somehow get completely lost and fall down a steep muddy bank, before stumbling across them. 

I was paired up with the chairman of the club Dave, a veteran climber and world leading mountaineering on expeditions to K2 (second highest mountain on earth), the Karakoram, the Andes and the Alps. He tied into the end of the rope and described the route we would be following and then set off with his famous silk footwork. He feet moved from edge to edge and then flattening against an almost vertical surface using the gritstone famous friction. He placed solid protection it small and for the ground unseen placements, and steadily progressed up the face to disappeared through a groove that top of the crag. Soon he shouted he was safety secured and it was my turn to follow. 

 

I repeated the process as Dave, tying in with the rope, wiping my climbing shoes free of grit and shouting "Climbing!". The rope was kept tight as I climbed, I slowly edged my way up and used a new technique of smearing flat onto the high friction surface. I reached the first piece of protection and fumbled with my nut key to loosen it's tight grip from a tapering crack. 

The higher I climbed the easier I moved, my eyes finding hidden pockets and rounded holds to palm off against. The last section eased in angle and I scrambled through the hole that Dave had disappeared. I was greeted with a flat moor behind the crag and the sun slowly setting to as I turned to the look back the way I came. The light casting a golden hue across the scattering of boulders and tall pines peppering the hillside below. 

We coiled the ropes in a method only used by cavers, that looked more like a mess than any particular order. Daisy chaining with a twist and loop and then bundle onto outer backs. We skidded and slide our way down the grassy and dirt path in our slick rock shoes and re-joined the rest of the group. Once we packed up our gear and headed for the cars, the light finally began to fade below the horizon. What on end to a perfect first taste of True Staffordshire Grit!

Go find your hidden gem

I was overwhelmed at the history and range of climbing in Staffordshire. Always wanted to try climbing? Then go find a club, climbing gym or local instructor. Once you've learnt the ropes, there's probably an adventure on your doorstep. Just like there was for me!